Suomalaisen kiipeilykansan kansallisaarre Burden of Dreams, 9A sai maaliskuun lopulla neljännen nousunsa italialaisen stallionin, Elias Iagnemman toimesta. Aikaisemmista suoraviivaisista ”boardibetoista” poiketen Elias käytti nousussaan hämmentävän määrän uuden koulukunnan hienouksia. Ensimmäinen muuvi pysyi toki ikonisena deadpointtina, mutta toiseen muuviin Elias valitsi Will Bosin löytämän vasemman jalan kantapäähuukin, jonka avulla hän skippaa klassisen ”kävelyosuuden”. Toppimuuvin herra tyylittelee World-Cupeistakin tutulla paddledynolla, jossa lippaan hypätään vasemmalla kädellä ja oikea suoraan viimeistelee liikeradan lopetuksen. Eliaksen beta lieneekin Karpojen suosikki tämänhetkisistä neljästä tarjokkaasta.
Vielä pari vuotta sitten ei liene olisi uskonut, että Etelä-Suomalainen hakkuuaukea voisi olla niin pullollaan maailman huippuboulderoitsijoita, kuin tällä viikolla (mikäli sääennuste pitää). Japanin edustusjoukkue Kokoro Fuji lipunkantajana, Ranskan maajoukkue Nico Pelorson etunenässään, Brittein boardijoukkue Aidan Robertsin johdattamana ja viimeisimpänä, muttei vähäisimpänä Ashima Shiraishi Amerikan mantereelta… Mikäli ennusmerkit pitävät paikkaansa, voi reitti saada huhtikuussa useammankin nousun, sillä onhan se Alphanen ohella maailman eniten noustu 9A.
The national treasure of Finnish climbers Burden of Dreams, 9A got its fourth ascent by the Italian stallion, Elias Lagnemma. Unlike his simpler betas from the board, here he used an astonishing amount of new school methods. The first move did stay as the iconic deadpoint, but for the second one he chose a left foot heelhook found by Will Bos, which allowed him to skip the classic “walk”. For the top move the fellow went with a paddle dyno familiar from his performances at the world cups, where you jump into the top with your left hand and the right hand goes straight to complete the movement. Elias’ beta is probably Karpo’s favorite of the current four so far.
Just a couple of years ago, you might’ve not have believed that the South Finnish felling area could be so full of the world’s top boulderers, as it is this week (if the weather forecast is anything to go by). The Japanese representative team Kokoro Fuji as the flag bearer, the French national team Nico Pelorson as the leader, the British board team led by Aidan Roberts and last, but not least, Ashima Shiraishi from the American continent… If the predictions are correct, the route may get several ascents in April, because it is, along with Alphane, the most climbed 9A in the world.
Perinteen mukaisesti olimme onnekkaita ja pääsimme esittämään neljännen nousun tehneelle Eliakselle muutaman kysymyksen:
As to tradition we were lucky enough to be able to ask a couple couple of questions from Elias who made the fourth ascent:
Hey and congratulations for your performance! Five trips and +80 days in Finland and approximately 20-25 sessions with ”Burden”. Are you mostly happy or relieved after this battle?
Thanks and Yes. I’m really happy, it has been the longest and most difficult battle I’ve had so far.
You did use heelhook beta (by Will Bosi) on the second move. He said that it was too low percentage for him, but it looked really solid for you. Was it like that/ do you think that you are usually really good at heel hooks?
The heelhook beta was perfect for me. I’m very good at pulling with the heel and compressing with the opposite side. But yes, it was low percentage beta.
What about this outstanding paddle dyno on the top, did you find it by yourself?
For the paddle dyno, I found this solution after I tried to jump with the left hand like Nalle, but when I had to stop the last hold, I instinctively wanted to grab something with my right hand and finally that’s what happened.
What about the first (hardest move in the world)? Did you find it desperate, or was it casual after all?
The first move is a really hard move, maybe 8B or 8B+ single move. I tried this movement a lot, but in the end I had become even stronger than that single move and I was always able to do it even with the tapes on my fingertips.
Do you have any idea how many sessions you spent with the replica and did you climb it too 🙂 ? Is it harder or easier than the real one?
I don’t know how many sessions I did with my replica, because I almost always tried the real boulder. The replica is good for training and for me the jump and the first move on the replica are more difficult than on the original one.
Is it possible to compare ”Burden” with ”Gioia, 8C+”?
BOD is another level.
Or with your superproject Exodia in Italy?
Maybe Exodia could be about the same grade. But it’s totally different style, because it has 20 moves. First part is 8C or 8C+ and the second part is hard 8B.
Did you learn something new during this process?
I realized that most of the limitations we have are primarily mental and not physical. For my body I could have climbed BOD a long time ago but my mind wasn’t ready yet.
Will (Bosi) said that this heelhook beta is really rough for your shoes. During the working period you used a bit stiffer ”Katana lace”, but final solution was ”Solution comp”? Why did you change shoebeta? How many pairs you destroyed during the process?
I have destroyed only just a pair of shoes. The heel from the ”Katana lace” is perfect for BOD, but the edge of the Solution is perfect for the jump. So I decided to have a little less stability in the heel but more precision for the last move.
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